Dutch Ovens and Braising Pots
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The word "brisket" conjures ultratender meat bathed in a rich, brothy sauce that miraculously made itself. For many, its flavor, texture and aroma are deeply intertwined with the observance of Passover; for others, it's simply an easy, economical meal that banishes the chill from winter and early-springtime evenings.

Whatever the case may be for you, the key to successful braising is the perfect pot. (It's fitting that the so-called pot roast isn't really a roast but the most popular braise of all time.) If you are fortunate enough to have an old generic pot that's been battered and bashed around the kitchen for years, yet still does the job brilliantly, don't you dare change a thing. If, however, you are in the market for what will become a family heirloom, then here's a quick look at some favorites. A good braiser -- also called a dutch oven, braising pan, braising pot or casserole -- can be expensive but, trust me, you will get your money's worth.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A DUTCH OVEN

The technique of braising involves putting a tough piece of meat snugly into a pot and then transforming it into something extraordinary by cooking it long and slow in a little liquid. Because a braise is sometimes browned on the stovetop before being transferred to the oven, indirect heat of the oven, it's crucial that the pot you choose have a heavy bottom that conducts heat efficiently as well as a tight-fitting lid that allows the top of the piece of meat to be cloaked in steam. (A domed lid gives you more room inside the pot.) The pot should be wide, so there's plenty of room for browning and for enabling the liquid reduce at a steady pace.

INEXPENSIVE DUTCH OVENS

The Lodge Logic Pre-Seasoned 5-quart Dutch Oven is, at $29.99 (amazon.com), a great value. Cast iron is hard to beat in many respects (you'll want to fry chicken in this baby, too.) The underside of the lid is smartly outfitted with "self-basting" spikes, which condense the steam and return the liquid to that already in the pot. The lid is relatively loose-fitting, though, so you'll probably need to add more liquid at some point during cooking. Although meat caramelizes really well during browning, the dark interior makes all those crisp, crunchy bits of flavor difficult to see. Another terrific buy is the Anolon stainless-steel 5 1/2-quart "Chef Clad" Round Casserole ($99.95 at cooking.com). There's not a huge surface area for browning, but it's very versatile; it practically begs you to make big batches of polenta, grits or applesauce.

PRICIER DUTCH OVENS

Brand names like Staub, All-Clad and Le Creuset push you into another, more expensive, category. Staub's 5-quart La Cocotte (around $200; available in various colors from amazon.com) was thoughtfully designed for ease of grasping with oven-mitts. Like the Lodge, it has self-basting spikes on the underside of the lid. It, too, encourages great caramelization but again, a dark interior makes it difficult to see what you're cooking. The All-Clad stainless-steel 5 1/2-quart Dutch Oven (in the $250 range from amazon.com) has less surface area for browning, but its alluring curvy shape makes you want to go cook something in it immediately. The Le Creuset 7 1/4-quart Round Dutch Oven (around $275; available in various colors from amazon.com), made of enameled cast iron, will become the workhorse of your kitchen. The pale-colored enamel inside the pot means excellent visibility; there's generous surface area for browning; and clean-up is a breeze. Le Creuset also makes a 5-quart "Braiser" (in the $200 to $250 range; various colors available from williams-sonoma.com), which is shallower than all the other pots discussed here. It's fantastic for smaller things such as short ribs or a chicken fricassee; it doesn't take up the whole oven; and, as it easily moves from kitchen to table, it's terrific for entertaining.