Choosing the Best Cutting Board

Has anyone else noticed that cutting boards are the latest In thing? Supermarket managers are stocking sleek bamboo boards in the produce aisle (brilliant); Williams-Sonoma carries an acacia board that's as beautiful as a border collie's merle coat; and boards made from recycled corrugated cardboard or pressed paper are available at Bed, Bath & Beyond and amazon.com as well as the latest ultracool cookware shop in Brooklyn.

ARE NEW CUTTING BOARDS BETTER THAN PLASTIC OR WOOD?

Do these newfangled cutting boards do a better job than a basic wood or plastic board? A work surface made of maple or another close-grained hardwood, after all, has a great feel to it -- solid and cushiony at the same time. And polyethylene or polypropylene boards are kindest to knife edges. The widely held view that plastic is a smarter choice from a food-safety standpoint is not without controversy, however; the Food Safety Laboratory at UC Davis found that a wood board that's been scrupulously cleaned by hand doesn't support the growth of bacteria, no matter how knife-scarred it is; an equally well used plastic board, cleaned the same way, will remain contaminated. (Bottom line: Always put a plastic board in the dishwasher, and, just to be on the safe side, discard it when the surface becomes roughened with wear.)

THE BEST INEXPENSIVE CUTTING BOARDS

The thin, handsome sweep of bamboo I first spied in a supermarket somewhere caught my eye because it reminded me of an old-school surfboard -- a long board, to be precise, with balsa-wood stringers down the middle. Totally Bamboo's aptly named Lil' Surfer ($12.99 at target.com) is a pleasure to use -- it's lightweight but not flimsy. And it's extremely durable; bamboo, technically a grass, is harder than maple. Be sure to stabilize it by putting a damp paper towel underneath it -- one of the first tricks you learn in culinary school (a scrap of waffled shelf liner works well for stabilizing a board, too).

The Architec Gripper Nonslip ($14.99 at amazon.com and supermarkets), made of high-density plastic, feels more substantial than Architec's identically priced Gripperwood, and it comes in a range of cheerful colors. The bottom is completely covered in raised rubber dots that stabilize the board beautifully, but make it one-sided, so you might also want to invest in a set of variously sized flexible chopping mats such as those made by Progressive International ($8.50 for a set of six at amazon.com). Progressive also makes a plastic board that fits neatly over the sink ($12.95 at amazon.com), a real plus if you have limited counter space.

The cheapest cutting "boards" going, by the way, are acrylic or glass, but avoid them. If you've just invested in the best knife you've ever had, you don't want to cause it to dull quickly by using such an impervious cutting surface.

PRICIER CUTTING BOARDS

Totally Bamboo scores again with the generously sized "Congo" ($47.82 at amazon.com); like any piece of great kitchen equipment, it makes you want to cook. The fact that it's lightweight means that it's easily maneuverable -- added value if you enjoy cooking with your kids or a group of friends. A big slab of butcher block seems clunky and awkward in comparison.

If you long to make that sort of traditional, heirloom-ish statement, though, I'd spring for the gorgeous acacia cutting board at Williams-Sonoma ($60 at williams-sonoma.com). It has the richly textured, smoky colors you see in some sheep dogs, and it's just as hard-working in that effortless sort of way.

I really want to like the ecological cutting boards made by Epicurean, a company in Duluth, Minnesota, that's an offshoot of a design firm specializing in custom municipal skate parks; their new line of professional-grade work surfaces for the home kitchen represents an attempt to reduce construction waste. The cutting boards, made from layers of paper soaked in a food-safe resin, are available almost everywhere ($19.99 at Bed, Bath & Beyond). Perhaps because they are so minimalist and slim, they seem pricey for their size, but, more to the point, the clipboard-type surface clacks sharply when being used, it produces fine particles of sawdust after a few weeks of wear and tear, and, after being washed, it has an unpleasant smell. It's found a niche in my kitchen, though: Because it's heat-resistant up to 350 degrees Fahrenheit, it makes a great trivet.

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