Thai Beef Salad

Getty ImagesThe year, 1974. The place, Tepparod Thai, in Los Angeles, thought to be the first Thai restaurant in the country. One spoonful of tom yam kung, a hot-and-sour shrimp soup, and the world of food as I knew it exploded.

Chile power? Oh, yes. But what made the tart broth taste like a fragrant grove of exotic citrus? "Takrai" and "makrut" offered the apologetic staff, at a loss for English equivalents. Later I'd learn that "lemongrass" and "Kaffir lime leaves" are staples in a Thai kitchen, along with galangal (a ginger-related root), and nam pla, a concentrated fish sauce and magical flavor enhancer. But before I understood any of that, this captivating cuisine had me hooked. I love Chinese, Japanese, Korean, and Vietnamese food, but it's Thai cooking I crave.

Yam neua, a favorite of mine, is an appealing beef salad with the contrasting tastes (hot, sour, salty) and textures (crisp and juicy) so typical of Thai salads. It would be one of many dishes in a traditional rice-based meal. I serve it American style as a main dish -- but always with rice, a perfect foil for the pungent flavors.

Get the Thai Beef Salad recipe.

Tips on Making the Thai Beef Salad

I try to think and shop like a Thai cook. Are the salad greens truly fresh and first-rate? If not, maybe I'll go instead for the color and crunch of cucumbers, carrots, and red bell peppers. Fresh mint, cilantro, and sweet basil are essentials, but all are widely available these days. If you have an Asian market in your town, you may also be able find several Thai basils and frequently fresh lime leaves: finely shredded, they add pizzazz to the dressing.

The dressing is the soul of this salad. I like equal amounts of lime juice and fish sauce (you may prefer more of one than another), a touch of sugar, and just enough diced serrano chiles to balance the flavors without wiping them out. Some recipes recommend using Thai "bird" chiles, but be wary. Just one of these tiny bombs packs the heat of three large serranos.

More on KitchenDaily: Gail Simmons on Ways to Use Fish Sauce.

Shopping resources: The site importfood.com sells a wide variety of Thai ingredients, including curry pastes, lemongrass and Kaffir lime leaves, as well as cookware and cookbooks.