Choosing the Best Roasting Pan

Cuisinart (Amazon.com)Originally, I stashed my big heavy roasting pan deep in a closet, reasoning that I'd haul it out once a year, for the Thanksgiving turkey and a Christmas ham or rib roast. What a dumb idea. Last year, sheer laziness stopped me from returning it to exile, and I've surprised myself by how much I've kept it in play: It's just the thing for a leg of lamb, a pork shoulder, barbecued ribs or chicken wings, two roast chickens, or searing a bunch of pork tenderloins on the stovetop.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A ROASTING PAN

If you want to use the pan for making gravy or searing meat on the stovetop, then you need a flameproof pan, not one made of Pyrex or ceramic. Large upright handles that are riveted to the pan are easier to grip with oven-mitted hands than swinging loop handles, and more secure as well. A roasting pan with a nonstick coating doesn't make any sense to me: They are not recommended for high-heat roasting; you won't get any lovely browned (caramelized) bits, which are the secret to fabulous gravy; and the dark coating makes it difficult to see what you are doing when making gravy or a pan sauce.

CHEERFUL & CHEAP ROASTING PANS

A smart choice is one of the covered enameled speckleware roasters available at amazon.com, as well as hardware stores and places like Kmart. They are inexpensive -- the largest size will set you back about $20 -- and their oval shape is perfect for a turkey. One of my former colleagues at Gourmet magazine -- test kitchen director, Ruth Cousineau -- is a big fan of these old-fashioned pans because you can both braise and roast the bird; covered, it cooks quickly and evenly and stays really moist. Removing the lid at the end of cooking allows the skin to brown well, and the pan juices yield a flavorful gravy. The downside of this sort of pan is its dark interior.

The flimsy aluminum foil pans you see at the supermarket buckle on the stovetop and have no handles at all, so I'm not keen on them. Still, if the alternative is no Thanksgiving turkey at all, buy two, nest one inside the other for extra support, and take good care.

MORE EXPENSIVE ROASTING PANS

The KitchenAid Gourmet Distinctions roaster (about $50 from amazon.com) isn't as thick or heavy as the more-expensive pans below, but it is great value for the money.

Cusinart Chef's Classic Stainless Roaster ($89.95 from amazon.com) comes with a rack, turkey lifters, and an instant-read thermometer (nice touch).

Sur la Table's own Tri-Ply Stainless Steel Roasting Pan ($99 for the larger size from surlatable.com) is a fantastic pan -- it browns evenly and is stable on the stovetop. A real workhorse.

The Calphalon Contemporary Stainless Roaster with Rack ($129.95 from amazon.com) is a move up in price, but the browning is stellar. Because the interior corners are slightly flared, this pan is especially whisk-friendly -- a real boon if you are fond of making pan sauces.

A Mauviel copper roasting pan from Normandy has a serious wow factor and a price tag to match. The next best thing is its stainless M'Cook 5-Ply Roasting Pan ($199.99 from amazon.com).