Buying the Thanksgiving Turkey

Richard Levine / AlamyEvery Thanksgiving, shoppers are faced with a dizzying array of turkey choices: Fresh or frozen? Does a brined bird make for a juicier result? Is a fancy heritage breed -- with its equally fancy price tag -- worth the investment? It's no wonder cooks get confused. But don't let the labels scare you: We've got the lowdown on turkey terms. And rest assured, no matter what kind of turkey you choose, it will be delicious if you follow the roast turkey recipe here.

FRESH OR FROZEN?

There's no need to defrost a fresh turkey, obviously, but the USDA recommends that you purchase it no more than two days ahead of time. A frozen turkey requires more planning ahead. Every four to five pounds of meat requires 24 hours of thawing in the refrigerator, so allow at least three and up to five days. (Watch our Kitchen Basics video on How to Defrost a Turkey.)

WHAT EXACTLY IS A "CONVENTIONAL" TURKEY?

Conventional turkeys -- what you'll see most often in the supermarket -- are industrially farmed. Selectively bred to grow fast on a small amount of feed in a short amount of time, they take about 14 weeks to get to market weight. The most common conventional turkey, the Broad-Breasted White, produces mostly white meat, which Americans tend to prefer.

A CLOSER LOOK AT THE LABEL

Self-basting/Pre-brined: Because conventional turkeys grow so quickly, they don't have a chance to fatten up -- and fat equals juiciness and flavor. That's why the carcasses are often injected with solutions that may include butter or other edible fat, broth or water, sugar, salt, or sodium phosphate.

Kosher: These industrially raised birds, processed in accordance with Jewish dietary law, are packed in salt, which improves flavor and texture, like brining (see below) does. They're also rinsed in cold water, which tightens the skin; that's why some feathers and quills are left behind. Give yourself time (lots of time, in some cases) to remove them with needle-nose pliers.

Certified organic: No antibiotics, 100 percent organic feed, and access to the outdoors are among the USDA standards. (See our article on What Does "Organic" Mean? for more information.) The flavor of an organic bird can be wonderful, but the white meat can be on the tough side. In other words, don't forget the gravy.

Heritage breed: This term applies to certain old-fashioned breeds raised with care. Their slow-to-moderate rate of growth (28 weeks) and an outdoor life result in firm, flavorful meat. With sustainability comes sticker shock: A 10-pound heritage turkey can cost $10 a pound -- easily ten times the price of a conventional bird.

BRINING

Brining a turkey in a salt-water mixture 10 to 24 hours before roasting causes it to absorb water and trap it during cooking. Brining also bumps up flavor, but it usually makes the pan juices too salty for gravy. To avoid a too-salty bird, brine only a fresh turkey or a fully thawed frozen turkey that isn't self-basted or kosher. (Watch our Kitchen Basics video on How to Brine a Turkey.)

BIG OR SMALL?

When you are feeding a crowd, are you better off with one huge turkey -- a 20- to 24-pounder, say -- or two smaller birds? If you are fortunate enough to have two ovens, then two small birds make good sense. And if there are lots of dark-meat lovers at the table, then you will have four magnificent drumsticks instead of the regulation pair.

But there's no denying that a big 'un is a real showstopper. Just make sure that it is totally thawed if frozen and don't stuff it, as it will take longer to cook. You'll also find that more than one instant-read thermometer comes in handy.

WHERE TO BUY

Self-basting/pre-brined, kosher and certified organic turkeys are available at most supermarkets.

You can buy Willie Bird organic turkeys via mail-order from Williams-Sonoma ($80 for a 10- to 12-lb bird; $160 for a 24- to 26-lb bird....like we said, it ain't cheap). For Thanksgiving delivery, you need to order by noon PT on Friday, November 19, 2010.

To find a source of heritage turkeys near you, visit Heritage Foods USA. Call early to reserve your bird; overall production is very small, and producers sell out quickly.

In addition, Bill Niman -- long known for his sustainable, humanely raised beef, pork, and lamb -- has now turned his attention to heritage turkeys. They're available from atmytable.com.