Katie Workman

What's a fork-in-the-road dish? This is the idea that you can separate out some of whatever you are making and make a simpler version for picky eaters, then continue on your merry way and gussy up the rest of the dish with gutsier ingredients, herbs, seasonings, etc. to give it more oomph for the grownups and adventurous eaters.

A frittata is essentially an Italian omelet, but one in which all of the other ingredients are blended with eggs, and then cooked in a skillet until set, and usually finished under the broiler. Sometimes some of the ingredients are strewn over the top of the frittata, and it is this step that allows you to create a fork-in-the-road frittata, one that has varying degrees of flavor for varying palates.

Like pasta, frittatas are a great conduit for using up odds and ends, or in this case providing a vehicle for one of those overzealous trips to the farmers' market, the ones that result in you staring at piles of pretty produce, wondering where you lost all control. A tub of fresh creamy goat cheese, some fat little cipollini onions, and a pint of the sweetest cherry tomatoes were the impetus for this frittata, and a cup of leftover cold rice and a few lingering sprigs of fresh basil gave the base of the frittata gentle flavor and texture. The goat cheese and tomatoes are segregated to one side, providing happiness to half of our group, and not turning off the others. If you want to cover the whole frittata with the tomatoes and goat cheese, use the larger amounts. This is a template: at this time of year, you'll be bedazzled with choices for creating your own fork-in-the-road frittata. (Baby eggplants, sweet peppers, new potatoes, early fall mushrooms ...)

Cipollini, Yellow Tomato and Fresh Goat Cheese Frittata
Serves 6

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 cipollini onions, about 2 inches across (about 1/2 pound) total, roughly chopped
10 large eggs
1/2 cup cold cooked rice
2 teaspoons chopped fresh basil
Kosher or coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1/4 to 1/2 cup soft goat cheese
3/4 to 1 1/2 cups cherry or grape tomatoes, halved

1. Preheat the broiler, with the rack set about 4 inches from the heat source.

2.In a medium (10-inch) broiler-proof skillet with a lid, heat one tablespoon butter over medium-low heat. Add the onion and season with salt and pepper. Sauté for 5 to 6 minutes until the onions are soft and starting to lightly caramelize.

3. Meanwhile, in a medium sized bowl, whisk together the eggs, 1/2 teaspoon salt, the basil, and the cold rice. When the onions are ready, add them to the egg mixture and quickly whisk to blend.

4. Return the skillet to the heat and add the remaining tablespoon of butter. When it is melted, pour the egg mixture into the skillet and cook over medium heat until the bottom is set; gently lift the edges of the frittata with a rubber spatula so that the uncooked eggs have the chance to run underneath the egg-rice mixture, moving all around the frittata. Do this every couple of minutes until the frittata is set on the bottom, but the top and middle are still a bit runny.

5. Sprinkle the goat cheese and the tomato halves (skin side up) over either half or the whole frittata, using the desired amounts. Place the skillet under the broiler and broil until the frittata is set and puffy around the edges, the cheese is melty, and the tomatoes are nicely roasted, 2 to 4 minutes. Remove from the oven and let sit for a minute or two, then run a spatula or knife around the edges of the skillet to loosen the frittata, and carefully slide the whole thing onto a serving plate, using a spatula to help guide the frittata out if needed. Cut into wedges. Or just cut it into wedges and serve it right from the pan. DON'T FORGET THAT THE HANDLE OF THE PAN IS HOT! You can leave a dishtowel draped over it to remind yourself.

Katie Workman is the author of the upcoming The Mom 100 Cookbook (May 2012), and the founding editor in chief of Cookstr.com.

More Fork-In-The-Road Recipes
Marinated Chicken Kebabs
Burgers With a Kick
Creole Shrimp