What's a fork-in-the-road dish? This is the idea that you can separate out some of whatever you are making and make a simpler version for picky eaters, then continue on your merry way and gussy up the rest of the dish with gutsier ingredients, herbs, seasonings, etc. to give it more oomph for the grownups and adventurous eaters.

Butternut squash is a family-friendly food -- naturally sweet so it appeals to kids (there's a reason pureed squash is one of the first vegetables babies eat), pretty to look at, and full of those all-important vitamins, minerals and fiber. It also takes brilliantly to all kinds of seasonings; from Italian to Indian, to you-name-it. And since we're heading into soup weather, for looks alone it's hard to beat a bowl of creamy, orangey-ochre butternut squash soup. The Fork-In-The-Road part here comes from a smattering of pantry spices that you can add for a slightly Indian-ish moment (and yes, I know there is nothing authentically Indian about this soup).

If you can bear an extra two-minute step, there is a serious advantage to heating the spices first in the pan, to enhance their flavor and give everything a slightly smoky/toasty quality. The smell of your kitchen is almost reward enough. If you can't wrap your mind around one more step, skip it, and just add the spices at the end -- you will still have a much more flavorful and interesting soup with the quick addition of a few pinches of everyday spices. Fresh ginger adds a cleaner burst of flavor, but you will still get the tingly warmth using dried ginger (see Spicing Options Note below).

Fork-in-the-Road Butternut Squash Soup

Serves 6 to 8

1/2 teaspoon coriander
1/2 teaspoon cumin
1/4 teaspoon ground cayenne
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger or 1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup chopped onion
1 butternut squash (2 1/2 to 3 pounds), peeled, seeded and cut into 1-inch chunks
1 clove garlic, finely minced
4 cups chicken or vegetable broth
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/3 cup half and half, light cream or heavy cream (optional)
About 3/4 cup sour cream or crème fraiche to serve (optional)

1. If you are toasting the spices, simply dump them (the dried or fresh ginger, coriander, cumin and cayenne) into the large pot you will be using to make the soup. The size of the pot is overkill, but it saves you from washing another pan. Place the pot over medium heat and stir the spices frequently for about 2 minutes, just until you can smell them getting toasty. Remove from the heat immediately; transfer them to a little plate, set aside and wipe out the pot with a paper towel.

2. Melt the butter in a same pot over medium heat. Add the onion and squash, stirring frequently until the onion starts to turn golden, about 6 minutes. Add the garlic and stir until it becomes fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the broth, bring to a simmer over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium and keep the liquid at a low simmer, partially covered, for about 20 minutes, until the squash is tender. Stir occasionally.

3. Puree the soup using a food processor, blender, or immersion blender (see Pureeing Options Note below). Return the pureed soup to the pot if necessary and stir in the cream over medium heat. Season with salt and pepper. Allow the soup to heat through, but not to boil.

4. At this point you may take out any servings you want to serve plain, and then add the spices, either toasted or not, to the remaining soup in the pot. The amount of spices called for assumes you are taking our two or three mugs or small bowls of plain soup, and spicing up the rest. Adjust the amount of spices proportionately if you have more or fewer people craving plain or seasoned, and don't worry about exact amounts. Serve each portion with a dollop of sour cream or crème fraiche, if desired.

Notes
Spicing options: One more thought; lots of kids won't mind the hint of ginger, but the other spices may be too exotic -– if your kids like ginger, add that to the whole pot, ladle out their portions, then keep going with the other spices at the end.

Pureeing options: You can transfer the soup in two batches into a food processor or blender (make sure to leave ample headroom at the top of the container, about 3 inches, and cover any opening with a dishtowel, rather than sealing it completely, so that the hot liquid doesn't splatter). This will entail you using another pot, to transfer the pureed soup into. Yes, I know. If you do have an immersion blender, this is the perfect moment to whip it out, and you can puree the soup right in the pot. If you don't have one, consider buying one. They are very useful tools to have, especially if you are a soup/sauce person.

Katie Workman is the author of the upcoming The Mom 100 Cookbook (May 2012), and the founding editor in chief of Cookstr.com.

More Fork-In-The-Road Recipes
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Marinated Chicken Kebabs
Burgers With a Kick
Creole Shrimp
Deviled Eggs
Farmers' Market Frittata