Chicken and Shrimp File Gumbo

Heat oil in a 10-inch heavy skillet (preferably cast-iron) over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Meanwhile, pat chicken dry, then sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon each salt and black pepper. Brown chicken in 2 batches, turning, transferring to an 8-quart pot as browned. Add 6 cups stock and water to pot with chicken.

Pour off all but 1/4 cup fat from skillet (add more oil if you don't have enough), then add flour and cook roux over medium-low heat, scraping back and forth with a flat wooden spoon until roux is color of milk chocolate, 30 to 45 minutes. Add onion, celery, and bell pepper and cook, scraping back and forth occasionally, until onion is softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Add remaining 2 cups stock and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally.

Meanwhile, bring chicken and stock in pot to a simmer. Scrape roux mixture into pot and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Add cayenne and remaining 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, then reduce heat and simmer gumbo, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until chicken is tender, 40 to 45 minutes. Add shrimp and simmer until just cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in scallion greens. Serve gumbo in big bowls ladled over rice and sprinkled with file powder and hot pepper sauce to taste.

Editors Note: Gumbo can be made 2 days ahead without shrimp and scallion greens, then refrigerated once cooled. Reheat before proceeding with recipe. File powder is an optional ingredient. If desired, it can be added to the pot, but should not be boiled. It will make the gumbo stringy, kind of what okra would do if it were added to gumbo then boiled for a long time. Many homes and restaurants serve the file powder on the table for guests to serve themselves. It's an ingredient that's a little unusual to offer those somewhat familiar with gumbo but who may not have had gumbo with file powder.