Hill Country Brisket

Advance preparation: 4 hours to overnight for curing the brisket (optional), then allow 8 to 9 hours for smoking the brisket and 1/2 hour for it to rest.

Trim the brisket so as to leave 1/4-inch cap of fat. (Any less and the brisket with dry out, any more and the fat will prevent the rub from seasoning the meat.)

Place the mustard, salt, pepper, powdered Worcestershire sauce, if using, in a bowl and mix them with your fingers. Sprinkle the rub on the brisket on all sides, rubbing it onto the meat. If you have time, wrap the brisket in plastic wrap and let it cure in the refrigerator for a least 4 hours or as long as overnight.

To grill: If you are using a smoker, set it up following the manufacturer's instructions and preheat it to 275F. When ready to cook, place the brisket fat side up in the smoker. Add wood chips or chunks to the smoker ever hours, following the manufacturer's instructions.

To grill: If you are using a charcoal grill, set up the grill for indirect grilling, place a large drip pan in the center and preheat the grill to low (275 F). To achieve this low temperature, use only half as much charcoal as normal. When ready to cook, toss about 2 cups of wood chips or chunks on the coals. Place the brisket on the hot grate over the drip pan, fat side up, and cover the grill. You'll need to add fresh coals and more wood chips or chunks to each side of the grill every hour for the first 4 hours.

Smoke or grill the brisket until a dark "bark" (outside crust) forms and the internal temperature of the meat is about 150 F, 4 to 5 hours; use an instant-read thermometer to test for doneness. Then, tightly wrap the brisket in a couple of layers of aluminum foil, crimping the edges to make a hermetic seal. Return the brisket to the smoker or grill and continue cooking until the brisket is very tender, but not soft, and the internal temperature is about 195F, about 4 hours longer.

Remove the wrapped brisket from the smoker or grill and place it in a warm spot. Let the brisket rest for about 30 minutes. The resting period is very important; during that time, the brisket will reabsorb its juices.

To serve, unwrap the brisket and thinly slice it. Spoon any juices over the brisket and get ready for some of the most extraordinary smoked beef on Planet Barbecue.

Note: Worcestershire powder is available by mail order through www.spicebarn.com. If unavailable, add 1 tablespoon of dry mustard.