Salmon with Mustard Glaze

Run your fingers over the meat side of the salmon pieces, feeling for bones. Pull out any you find with needle-nose pliers or tweezers. Rinse the salmon under cold running water and then blot dry with paper towels. Brush the skin side of the fish with the oil and season both sides with salt and pepper.

Prepare the glaze: in a nonreactive mixing bowl whisk together 2 tsp mustard seeds and the mayonnaise, mustard, dill, and brown sugar, if using. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to medium. When ready to cook, brush and oil the grill grate. Gently place the salmon pieces skin-side down on the hot grate. Spoon the glaze evenly over the tops of the fish pieces and sprinkle with the remaining mustard seeds. Cover the grill. Grill the salmon pieces until cooked through, 12 to 15 minutes. The skin will become dark and crisp. If it starts to burn, slide folded rectangles of aluminum foil beneath each piece of fish to protect the skin. To test for doneness, insert a metal skewer through the side. It should come out very hot to the touch after 20 seconds. The top of the fish should be lightly browned. Transfer the salmon to plates or a platter and serve at once.